10 European Tour Diary

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mantheylovetohate
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10 European Tour Diary

Post by mantheylovetohate » 02 Jun 2010, 20:22

There's been a shortage of memoirs recently so I thought I'd chip in with an article. 20 years ago this week... Best wishes to all the crew on the tour, most of whom are MIA.

10 European Tour 1990 diary

Adventurers
Brenda Or Brinda, due to her New Zealand accent
Dave from York Northern acquaintance & well known face, from York
Deek Steve’s mate from Edinburgh, part of a duo with Graham
Graham as per Deek
Jacquie My future missus makes a fleeting Parisian appearance
Karen Our mate from the UK tour, from Gatwick way
Owen Uber nerd from Oxford, touring partner of Steve
Steve Another well known Northern face, from Preston
Trevor Known as Dogus due to his ‘Feline’ jacket painting’s canine appearance, from the North East

The plan
Following a successful completion of the UK10 tour, Steve & I set our sights on the 14 date European jaunt. Neither of us could drive back then so our travelling possibilities were somewhat limited. Along with various accompanying friends for different segments of the tour, our plan was to utilise the wonderful Inter-railing ticket (costing around £150 for 1 months unlimited European train travel) to do the full tour.
The only major stumbling block seemed to be trying to understand the confusing European train timetable book we got from Thomas Cook! Here we go…


Stadt Jubilaum, Linz, Austria 18/05/90
Steve, Deek & Graham travelled by train across from the UK while Trevor & I flew out to Munich due to work constraints & then took a train to Linz. At one station, the train stopped & everyone got off, except us. We saw them boarding a train on a different platform. Thinking that we were going to get left behind, we decided to cross the tracks between the trains & climb on to the other train. We were unaware that this was actually the border & we were then confronted by a border guard with a machine gun who thought we were doing something dodgy & sneaking through the border. A friendly local, who luckily spoke English, explained what had happened & the guard left us alone. We then met up with the others at the ‘venue’ which was a large marquee on a barren area next to the river. The gig was uneventful with the same set we’d grown accustomed to from the UK tour.
After the gig, we were thrown out of a bar in the main square & then spent the rest of the night getting drunk with Alex Gifford & some of his ‘friends’… That night the 5 of us crammed in a tiny B&B room for 2, so sneaking out in the morning proved to be great fun. We then had an easy journey the next day across Austria to Vienna.
Image
On a train somwhere in Austria

CA Zelt, Vienna, Austria 19/05/90
The venue was in a fairground/amusement park area in the suburbs & was in a large, permanent, pink tent. We met up with Brenda from New Zealand (& her mate) who came out for 4 gigs of the tour. The gig itself was a bit sparsely attended so during the first 3-4 songs, while they weren’t needed on stage, the brass section came & joined us in the crowd to attempt to liven things up a bit!!! After the gig, we took the train back to the city centre & we were mistaken for the band by a slightly mad woman who’d been at the gig. She, in turn, told everyone else in the carriage who (she thought) we were & we were even asked to sign autographs! When we finally got off the train, we were applauded by the whole carriage. Very surreal but not the only time on the tour we were mistaken for the band!! We then set about finding the band’s hotel & arrived there at around midnight. Dave was the only one still up & we proceeded to chat to him about a wide range of subjects. One of our party, who shall remain nameless, then dropped the bombshell ‘So, tell us about flying, Dave’ & Dave’s answer took at least an hour. We left the hotel around 3 & made our way back to the main station for the train south to Graz.
Image
Outside the CA Zelt tent

Haus der Jugend, Graz, Austria 20/05/90
Since the early planning stages attending this gig had been a concern due to train departure times into Yugoslavia for the Belgrade gig the following night. There were only a few trains a day & the last one left 30 minutes after the gig was due to start (the station was a good 15 minutes walk away). If we missed that train, the next one in the morning would then arrive in Belgrade too late for us to see the gig! Nightmare!!
In a touching display, the band (who were aware of our plight) came onstage 20 minutes early so we could at least see some of the gig. We managed to see 6 songs & had to leave mid set which was a strange experience (it’s the only time I’ve ever left a Stranglers gig early). The walk to the station was quiet & the atmosphere was tense-none of us were happy. Luckily we made it in time & caught our train OK for the mammoth journey into the former Eastern Bloc country Yugoslavia.
Image
Graz venue

Dvorna Pionir, Belgrade, Yugoslavia 21/05/90
We arrived fully refreshed in Belgrade & the first thing that struck you was the drabness of the place. Everything was grey, even the trees, & all the cars seemed to be of one make & all a uniform grubby white. The only oasis of colour in the landscape was the first glimmer of Western influence, the Golden Arches of McDonalds! It felt a real adventure exploring the city although we settled in quite well, getting drinks, food & porn relatively easily despite the language barrier. In a bar near the venue, we encountered our first pre-civil war hostility between Serbs & Croats. A friendly Serbian guy (who again probably thought we were the band) bought us drinks in the bar & told us how much he hated Croatians. None of us were aware of any of these internal tensions & were oblivious of the depth of the hatred (until the war kicked off a few short months later). The gig was in a large, drab sports centre in an equally drab residential area. We arrived in time for the sound check, spending the time before the band arrived with the crew (Bill, Max, Sil, Bruce, Colin plus others) & taking photos with the School Mam chair! The gig itself was great & the crowd, who got to see very few Western bands at the time, were going mental. It was a very memorable evening. We then caught a late train retracing our steps back across the country to the Croatian city of Zagreb.
Image
Naughty boys-Yugoslvian porn cinema


Dom Sportova, Zagreb, Yugoslavia 22/05/90
The other side of the coin, but this time with the Croatian point of view instead. Again, the locals were just as friendly to us, welcoming us like we were the band, & again they were just as scathing about the Serbs! The city was as colourless as Belgrade & the gig in another grey 70s monstrosity of a sports hall was just as lively as the previous night.
The next journey, out of Yugoslavia, then Italy & into France, was to be the longest (& most eventful) of the tour. Luckily the next day was a day off so we decided to spend 23 hours of it travelling….

Day off 23/05/90
The Yugoslavian trains were sparsely furnished & uncomfortable & the passenger coaches were often used to transport livestock like goats to market. The floor was covered with small foul smelling pellets of goat shit & we took up our compartment/
animal pen in the last carriage at the rear of the train. One enjoyable part of the journey was using the toilet & then flushing it whilst the others watched the ‘spoils’ bouncing down the track through the open rear door of the train. The toilet only remained in use for a short part of the journey & soon became renamed as ‘Splattzenhousen’ due to its Trainspotting-like condition. We arrived at the Italian border & the real fun started. The border guards came on the train (here we go again) & had a field day with us. This was in the run up to the World Cup in Italy & the border guards assumed (wrongly) that we were a British hooligan firm coming into Italy the back way to avoid detection!!! We eventually proved the purpose of our trip & they let us (& the rest of the train) carry on our journey. We breathed a short-lived sigh of relief until we pulled into the next station… The platform was full of hundreds of Italian football fans who boarded the train en masse. We sat very sheepishly, surprisingly quiet & luckily relatively unnoticed until they all got off a few stops later. Didn’t fancy the odds too much to be honest! Thankfully the rest of the journey across Italy & into France went without a hitch & we arrived in Nice late at night. There was just time for us to get a quick bite to eat & drink (Broccoli Pizza & Lychee juice in gastronaut Steve’s case) before we found a bar & the brass section in Nice’s old town. We also found the venue which was a tent covered amphitheatre in a nicely manicured park on the seafront. What we didn’t know was, as JJ later informed us, that the park was also the centre of Nice’s drug trade &, as we walked through the park towards the band’s hotel, we were approached by a large group of North Africans in tracksuits & bling. We were heading for the exit across the park & they were trying to intercept us. Ever the responsible one, I was bringing up the rear & was grabbed at by one particularly large guy who called me an ‘English skinhead’ to which, totally affronted, I shouted ‘F***off, I’m not a f***ing skinhead!!!’ I even surprised myself & we all made it out of the park unscathed… With hindsight, us in our black uniform of leather jackets & Martens & them in their shell-suits & gold, it must have resembled a scene from the crap 70s film “The Warriors”! We eventually made it back to our B&B where Steve decided to collapse in the middle of the road (luckily it was a side street) & then to our amazement spent the rest of the night falling asleep standing up in a corner with his orange ‘warning’ towel over his head… (NB This infamous towel made many future appearances &, those familiar with it, learnt quickly to keep away!!!). What an eventful day that was….

Theatre de Verdure, Nice, France 24/05/90
After the hectic previous day, it was great just to relax in lovely, sunny Nice (& get our first shower since Linz!!!). Due to the late May heat wave, the more adventurous of our group decided to wear their shorts. Typical Brits on holiday, all with milk bottle legs of course! We were joined by our mate Dave ‘from York’ who had come out on his own from York for the next few gigs. Steve & I wisely used the day off to both get sunstroke & spent the rest of it hiding in shady spots in the park trying to recover!
The gig was definitely one of the highlights of the tour & the atmosphere was just brilliant. Bizarrely, it actually felt like a home town gig, obviously due to JJ’s close connections with the area. The first set change surprise of the tour was the inclusion of an apt (& welcome addition) European Female.
The next day, Deek & Graham, who had both run out of money by this point,
left for home whilst the remaining 4 of us headed north towards Lyon.
Image
Team pic in drug park next to Nice venue with Alex G


Le Transbordeur, Lyon, France 25/05/90
I had visited Lyon a year previously to see the first of JJs 2 Un Jour Parfait gigs & it was nice to be back. The gig was a long walk from the centre in a black painted (inside & out) venue in an industrial suburb of the city. There were French TV cameras there that night filming most of the gig (although we were later disappointed to not be visible on the footage….). The long trek back to the main station for an early train was livened up by us walking along the high speed TGV lines in the dark. Dave & Trevor took a different train & headed home which just left Steve & I for the next 3 German dates. The next leg of the trip, across the Alps to Southern Germany, proved to be the most picturesque part of the tour…



Rock Am See Festival, Konstanz, Germany 26/05/90
What an amazing journey! The German trains are spotlessly clean, always on time & the views of the mountains & valleys through the windows were breathtaking. It was almost a shame to arrive at the Festival site on the edge of Lake Konstanz for the band’s only non headlining appearance of the tour. They were placed fairly low on the bill, even below ex-Marillion singer Fish & came on stage mid afternoon. The band received a muted response from the crowd who all remained seated throughout the set! It felt very strange being the only Stranglers fans there & it was quite embarrassing doing our stupid wiping our eyes ‘dance’ to 96 Tears in front of 20,000 disinterested people. The things we go through for this band….
Following a shortened set, we waited around the backstage exit for the band & had a brief chat before taking our opportunity to take the piss out of Fish’s real name (Derek Dick) as he walked past. Still, we used the early gig finish wisely to get our heads down on a train for the long journey north to Hamburg…

Stadtpark, Hamburg, Germany 27/05/90
We arrived nice & early in Hamburg central station & immediately proceeded to the bright lights of the city’s cultural hub ‘The Reeperbahn’. We arrived there at 9am on a Sunday morning & spent most of the day ogling (nothing else!) the merchandise on offer & then sat in a bar, which had porn on video-screens, nursing solitary Cokes due to the prices. Talking of prices, the small tables we sat at had a telephone in the middle with a menu of services on offer. We sat there giggling like a couple of schoolboys!!! At one stage, in an odd underground car park type brothel set up, we were accosted by a stunning lady (with spider’s legs peeping out of her bikini bottoms). She enquired if we would like to ‘go upstairs with her’, we replied we had no money to which she gave us directions to cash machines, banks & bureau de change where we could cash travellers cheques, withdraw money etc. She was both helpful and persistent but we made our excuses & left (with our hands in our pockets!).
We the made our way to the Stadtpark in the north of the city to the outdoor venue, which was basically a covered stage & a large flat grassy area surrounded by a 20 foot high hedge. We were invited to have lunch with the crew and sat in a wooden hut backstage & ate a very hearty meal. During the band’s set (again strangely in daylight like Konstanz), the heavens opened & soaked everyone but the band. With their usual wit, the band played the first few bars of a familiar tune with Hugh crooning ‘I’m singing in the rain’. Very funny-but not at the time!!!
We decided, as there were now only 2 of us (& neither would mention flying!!!), that
we should pay a visit to the band’s hotel afterwards. In a repetition of Vienna, Dave was the only one there (as Hugh & JJ were off doing press) but conversation this time steered well clear of aviation & remained solely about the band’s early days. One huge moment of responsibility was the chance to look after Dave’s bag while he went to the toilet. In reward, he showed us all the bag’s contents & their purpose on his return. What memories!!! Again we left the hotel late, after a brief chat with Hugh & JJ on their return, & we got a cab across to the station for another late train over to Dusseldorf for our return to the Phillipshalle…

Phillipshalle, Dusseldorf, Germany 28/05/90
I had lost my European gig virginity 2 years earlier on the MGP Skipper trip to the Phillipshalle, so I was looking forward to going back there. In the headlines at the time of the previous gig, England football fans had smashed up the city during the 1988 European Championships so we felt unwelcome & the atmosphere was hostile. We felt quite ashamed to be tarred with that brush…The 1990 return was far less eventful & the gig itself was a real anti-climax. In fact, ticket sales were so poor that a large black curtain separated the stage & 50 feet of space for the crowd from the rest of the cavernous venue. There were probably only 250 people there that night, including Marcel later of Dutch SIS, in a venue that could hold 8000. It was the low point of the tour & we couldn’t wait to leave Germany to travel back into France for 2 more gigs…

Espace Foire, Lille, France 29/05/90
Steve & I arrived early in Lille & we had time to kill before Karen arrived, as she was travelling out from the UK that day. Outside the front of Lille’s main station is a fountain & both of us removed our Martens & sat bathing our weary feet for about half an hour. Oh, the bliss! One of the best moments of the whole tour for me…
Karen arrived & we set about finding the venue, having first located a cheese shop! For the past few gigs on the tour, Hugh had altered the line in ‘Sewer’ from ‘They’ve got lots of diseases’ to ‘Lots of continental cheeses’! We lined up a little surprise for the gig that night… The 3 of us arrived at the venue, which was in a large exhibition complex & met up with a few Brits who had travelled over for the gig. During ‘Sewer’, just as Hugh sang the Continental cheeses line, we launched a kilo of cheese, which we’d cut into cubes, up onto the stage! Hugh seemed very amused, even though he changed the lyrics back for the rest of the tour for some reason! One person who wasn’t too happy was Sil as the cheese got all over the band’s equipment & melted due to the lights… Oops!
Following the gig, we went back to the centre of Lille & had a night of relative luxury in a 2 star B&B near the station.

Grand Rex, Paris, France 30/05/90
A nice short journey the following morning found us in Paris before lunchtime. We strolled around the important sights & took photo opportunities as all Stranglers fans should do. We visited the Pompidou Centre, the banks of the Seine & the steps of Montmartre before heading to the venue, which was a lovely art deco cinema. I bumped into my future partner Jacquie at the soundcheck & we chatted in the Quickburger next to the venue. How romantic!!! The support act for this gig was brilliant. It consisted of 20-25 men bashing tribal rhythms out on oil drums with big sticks, like modern Kodo drummers. Absolute quality! The Stranglers came on & you could sense there was a real tension on stage between Hugh & JJ. One French fan had smuggled a bottle of Jack Daniels in & offered it to JJ, he duly accepted & swigged back a large part of the contents. That definitely wasn’t going to help the situation… The gig was an absolute blinder which seemed to be fuelled by the tense atmosphere onstage. The crowd were both lively & vocal &, along with the support, the whole event is still my favourite ever gig.
Following the gig, we bumped into John Ellis in a bar in Place de Republique, near the band’s hotel, & he told us about the atmosphere between Hugh & JJ. We made our way back to the Gare du Nord to catch yet another late train, this time west to the port of St.Malo.

Day off 31/05/90
The 3 of us arrived in St Malo & made our way past the fortified old town to the ferry port for the relatively short crossing over to Jersey. The trouble began when one of the Customs officers took exception to Steve’s studded belt & made us empty out our bags. He clearly didn’t like the English, or ‘punks’, let alone English punks & we felt lucky to escape without the rubber glove treatment just in time to catch the last ferry across to the Channel Islands. On arrival, we were lined up criminal-style with some other fans that had just arrived from England (including a certain Mr Barry Spooner!) & we were sniffed at by a sniffer dog looking for drugs. No luck for our canine friend… Then, we caught a bus in the direction of the ‘Holiday Village’ where the band & crew were staying. We got off the bus & as we approached the complex, some of the crew pulled up in a jeep & one of them, who shall remain nameless, informed us that ‘If you hurry, JJ might give you his room as he’s not happy with it & has booked a hotel in town’! What a result! We hurried to the ‘village’ & played dumb when we bumped into Mr Burnel who was just about to leave. He asked us where we were staying, to which we glumly replied ‘Nowhere’ & he said ‘Oh, you can have my room’. Well, that went according to plan!!! The rest of the day was spent relaxing in JJ’s old room which seemed good enough for us & then drinking with the crew in the bar.

Fort Regent Leisure Centre, Jersey, Channel Islands 01/06/90
We were awoken early in the morning by a certain French bass player walking into the room without knocking. What a bloody cheek!!! We thanked him again & he informed us that we would have to pay if we stayed that night as well, which we did. He was very amused by the fact that Steve & I were sharing the double bed whilst Karen was sleeping in the bath. Very chivalrous of us I thought! We had breakfast in Dave’s company but neither of us had the nerve to approach Jet while he was eating though…
We travelled into town early afternoon & found the locals very unwelcoming indeed, almost having a Gallic dislike of the English. Snooty bloody tax dodgers!!! We got to the venue, which was a leisure centre in an imposing old fort overlooking St Helier, & helped the crew with the load in. The gig wasn’t especially memorable, except for some Sieg Heiling skinheads causing trouble & me having a little set to with one of the travelling English because he was barging Karen. Afterwards, we helped the crew load the van & accompanied them back to the ‘village’ where we were duly entertained into the small hours by the musical antics of Sil crooning with Max on piano accompaniment….

Day off 02/06/90
There was a seemingly inexplicable day off despite the short journey across to a far more welcoming Channel island, Guernsey. We caught the bus up to the small airport on Jersey to catch a ‘flying pencil’ which was a small, twin-engine plane with about 20 seats, including the pilot. Space was at a real premium & we were crammed in with luggage as well. The lucky person that sat next to the pilot was even required to help him if he asked! The flight itself was terrifying, especially when we flew over the sea cliffs onto Guernsey. The updrafts threw the plane about everywhere & I nearly kissed the ground when we finally landed safely! Never again!!! We found a B&B for that night, but we were planning to kip rough the following night as funds were running low. One memorable event was having a meal in an American Diner in St Peter Port & being served by Ziggy from Grange Hill, who was basically the same as his TV character.

Beau Sejour Leisure Centre, Guernsey, Channel Islands 03/06/90
We arrived early at the venue, which was a normal boring leisure centre, & again helped the crew. This time, the gear set up & the gig were being filmed by Benson & Hedges, who sponsored the gig, for a promo video (Steve managed to get a copy of it but has since mislaid it!). As we’d helped them, Sil & the crew offered us a place to stay in their B&B for the night, a fact that later caused some problems…
The gig itself was again nothing special & the fun started once we returned to the band’s hotel. Steve & I sat down to talk to Hugh in a corner of the bar. He was in a very positive mood & mentioned their planned US tour in the autumn. He then asked us where we were staying that night, we replied with the crew & he took exception to what was, in his view, our imposing ourselves on his hard working crew. The conversation rapidly descended into an argument & the signs of strain & tension from the tour came out.
It must have been the Lille cheese incident that caused it…
With Hugh being his idol, Steve was devastated & proceeded to drown his sorrows for the rest of the night. Hugh went off to bed & the rest of the band told us ‘Don’t worry about him! He doesn’t speak for the rest of us!’ which made us feel slightly better. It put a real dampener on what should have been a triumphant final night for us. After an eventful night in the crew’s B&B, where we got no sleep due to their antics, we took a proper plane back to Southampton & travelled home from there…

So, despite the odds, we had managed to accomplish our mission. 17 days, 14 gigs, 5 countries, 1000s of miles around Europe, all by train but with very few real problems & little proper accommodation. We had a great time with some close friends, so much so that we travelled back out to the band’s appearance at Nyon festival, Switzerland a couple of weeks later. Unfortunately, due to bad timing & transport, we missed Hugh’s penultimate gig with the band in Alicante, Spain. It was the only 1990 gig that we missed!
The following year, we returned to Europe on the 8 date tour marking the first visit of the Mark II line up-but, in hindsight, 1990 was head & shoulders better…

Mantheylovetohate
November 2009
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Re: 10 European Tour Diary

Post by BazinBlack » 02 Jun 2010, 21:33

Great read thanks O, every now and again you get something like this that makes it worth staying on the forum.

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Re: 10 European Tour Diary

Post by NMH1965 » 02 Jun 2010, 22:10

Brilliant Owen, remember bumping in to you on a couple of the 10 Tour UK Dates, a great tour as I remember. Would never have done as many European dates as that my wife at the time would have chopped my 'jacobs off :!: :lol:

Having done a few overseas gigs myself and the crack and experiences live with you forever. :smt023

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Re: 10 European Tour Diary

Post by theraven1979 » 02 Jun 2010, 22:39

Very very cool Owen. Many thanks for this. I've not read *all* of this yet as I'm going to save it for when I have a nice wine. 1990 - It seems so long ago, yet so like just yesterday (I know that makes no sense!)

I wish the forums had more posts like this - One of the reasons I keep this site alive.

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It taught me how to laugh again"

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Re: 10 European Tour Diary

Post by beebop » 02 Jun 2010, 23:02

Fantastic if only I had discovered my gigging shoes earlier....which one are you on the 1st Pic btw Owen ?

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mantheylovetohate
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Re: 10 European Tour Diary

Post by mantheylovetohate » 02 Jun 2010, 23:11

beebop wrote:Fantastic if only I had discovered my gigging shoes earlier....which one are you on the 1st Pic btw Owen ?
I took the photo Mark...
Did someone say "Wonky"?

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Re: 10 European Tour Diary

Post by Claireinblack » 02 Jun 2010, 23:18

Brilliant Owen
Thanks for posting..

:grin:
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Re: 10 European Tour Diary

Post by Roy Batty » 02 Jun 2010, 23:23

dave from york is actually from somewhere like carlisle via derby (weird mix) :lol:

he;s not m.i.a. i see him most weeks, we use the same gymn. we also cross paths on a morning goin to work sometimes... he was gonna do the recent leeds gig with me but had to work a niteshift (i dont think he was too impressed with retro rockets) i think the only strangler related gig he's done in the last 4 or 5 years was hughs hooverdam gig at the duchess last year in york...
URGH URGH URGH URGH!!!!

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mantheylovetohate
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Re: 10 European Tour Diary

Post by mantheylovetohate » 02 Jun 2010, 23:45

A couple more pics:

Image
Nice legs in Nice! L-R: Graeme, Dave, Steve, Trevor & Deek

Image
Group shot-load in at Belgrade

Image
Deek with the School Mam chair

Image
JJ at Vienna
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Re: 10 European Tour Diary

Post by mabus » 03 Jun 2010, 09:33

Great Read Owen

I remember talking to you at the Lille gig

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Re: 10 European Tour Diary

Post by hoopinblack » 03 Jun 2010, 12:03

fantastic read that owen,nice one.

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Re: 10 European Tour Diary

Post by Mad Hatter » 03 Jun 2010, 12:24

That's brilliant Owen. Thanks for sharing.

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